Thursday, June 21, 2007

From the Land O' Lakes Box: Red Hots Salad

Dsc01364Editor’s Note: This column is devoted to recipes and food-related stories from my life, mostly from childhood and adolescence, which is when food is most new or interesting or gross. The Land O' Lakes reference comes from a recipe box my Grandma C. gave me a couple years ago that is designed to look like a Land O' Lakes butter box. It is filled with all of my mother’s family’s traditional recipes, all handwritten on cards or old scraps of paper.

I’m generally not a fan of Jello-based salads. A big mound of jiggly red gelatin with specks of Lord-knows-what inside just doesn’t kickstart the salivaries for me. The main problem is the stark contrast in texture of the soft Jello with the hard, cold chunks of pineapple and other questionables. And as an adult, I generally feel that Jello is a tragic waste of calories. However, my Grandma C., probably sometime long before my birth, repaired all the wrongs of the generic Jello salad, mainly by adding two ingredients: applesauce and the time-honored candy, Red Hots.

This recipe takes the Jello, adds texture with applesauce, spices it up with Red Hots, giving it a cinnamon kick, and then, according to C., the optionals are pineapple, celery, and nuts. Frankly, I wasn’t aware those were optional, so for the purposes of this post and for honoring the great Red Hots Salad, they are essential.

I’ve never known a Thanksgiving without Red Hots Salad. And though it kind of looked like an alien mold with the kitchen sink thrown in (when is celery and applesauce ever in the same bowl?), it married perfectly with the rest of the grub. With its solid, but saucey texture and reddish color, it competed with cranberry sauce as the fruity/salady item. And as such, it was not a bad thing when it happened to seep into the mashed potatoes or a piece of gravy-covered turkey. And it’s the item that after you’ve gone up to the buffet twice, you go up a third time to get another helping of the stuff, no matter how bad of an idea that might be to your expanding stomach.

As I’ve progressed rapidly into adulthood, I’ve enjoyed sharing these family curiosities with AC, whose reactions are both funny (Oh my God, this is amazing!) and familiar to my own reactions, as my untrained palate as a child tried to understand what I was eating.

So whenever AC and I are back in Texas for Christmas, we request, no require, Red Hots Salad. And Grandma C. always obliges. Here’s the transcript from the hand-written card:

Recipe for: Applesauce Salad (Editor’s Note: This is my Grandma’s name for it, but I’ve always known it as Red Hots Salad)



“THE salad you kids always want.”

From: Grandma C.

1 pkg orange Jello
3 Tbsps red hot candies
1 can applesauce
1 cup boiling water



Add: pineapple,  nuts, celery. “I always add all of the above.” —Grandma C.



“Put red hots in water and bring to boil. Add to Jello and stir until dissolved. Add rest of ingredients. Pour in mold, and refrigerate.”

—AKC



Monday, June 18, 2007

It's All Hyderabadi to Me . . .

The stretch of suburbia (West Alexandria/Annandale/Springfield) in which I toil offers an extraordinary array of culinary riches. Annandale is, of course, known as the D.C. area’s Little Korea. But in addition to dozens of Korean restaurants, my office is also just a five or ten minute drive from all of the following: a solid Peruvian chicken joint, my favorite Afghan kebab stand, a Korean/French bakery hybrid (scroll to the last paragraph in the linked article), decent Indonesian, serviceable Thai, Northern Chinese, Pakistani sweets, and even Bolivian. But until relatively recently, I had to content myself with exploring this bounty on my own or simply not at all (I don’t have fun eating at a restaurant all by myself).

You see, most of my co-workers are admittedly happy to breakfast at McDonald’s and lunch at Wendy’s. And the few lunches that we all have together in the conference room are typically catered by Papa John’s (as a side note, one former co-worker always insisted that at least one pizza be topped with hamburger, an unusual request made all the more unlikely by the fact that he originally hailed from Bangladesh). But I don’t suffer from those choices too much because thankfully, on those rare occasions when we actually do go out for lunch as one big happy work family, we can all agree upon Mike’s American Grill.

Fortunately, one of my newer co-workers has proven to be surprisingly amenable to just about every lunchtime expedition I’ve proposed. He’s originally from India, and perhaps because he’s had to assimilate his tastes to the American palate he’s willing to explore just about any other culture as well. His command of English, including idioms, is outstanding. But sometimes when I’m trying to pitch a cuisine that he hasn’t tried before and my salesmanship is falling flat, I’ll resort to describing a particular item in terms of Indian food in a last ditch effort to pique his interest. And I only realized the other day just how odd it is that, outside of this forum, I regularly describe an already seemingly exotic ethnic dish in terms of another exotic ethnic dish- neither of which would constant my own native grub. While my interpretations can be a bit loose, I thought some folks might find it interesting to see a short list of various dishes that I’ve described in terms of Indian dishes:

1)    I’ve likened Bahn Xeo, the Vietnamese crepe described in the previous post, as being akin to the Indian dosa, crepes that are typically filled with potatoes onions and spices. While the Viet Royale crepe could be loosely described as dosa-like, the one that my co-worker and I had at Saigon Citi (they do spell it "Citi" at the actual restaurant even though the link suggests ortherwise) was like a thick and greazy (and I do mean “greazy”) omelette.

2)    I’ve likened Thai curry puffs to Indian samosas. The curry puffs at Thai Lemon grass are among my favorites in the area, even if Thai Lemon Grass is somewhat underwhelming, in general. The curry puff is a delicate pastry stuffed with potatoes and spices whose cooling accompaniment is usually a dish of chopped cucumbers and carrots in a light vinegar dipping sauce. This is very similar to the Indian samosa, which is basically a small, fried turnover stuffed with potatoes or meat and spices.

Dsc010513)    I’ve likened the salteña, a Bolivian baked turnover, to the Indian samosa. Salteñas are easily in my top five favorite food items of all time, as they are self-contained meals, or at least half-meals, with the perfect balance of sweet and savory and protein and carbs. I’ve been to a number of different Bolivian places, from the relatively upscale Tutto Bene (an Italian restaurant by weekday, a Bolivian restaurant by weekend) to the rather divey and unwelcoming Pike IV (not to be confused with Phase IV), and I’ve never been disappointed by a salteña.  The salteña is typically stuffed with a chicken or beef stew that usually has peas, potatoes, onions, olives, pieces of hardboiled egg, and sometimes raisins. Unlike its possible Indian counterpart, a salteña can be potentially hazardous for the novice, as a surprising amount of hot broth will spill out if you just plant a haphazard bite without knowledge of its consequences. The salteñas pictured here are from Pike IV.

4)    I’ve likened Peruvian pollo a la brasa to tandoori chicken. This is basically a battle of the marinades. I happen to favor the crisp, golden, spice encrusted Peruvian chickens to the otherworldly red of its distant Indian cousin. Like kebabs, pollo a la brasa is one of those rare ethnic foods that has true cross-cultural appeal. In fact, I have been known to describe pollo a la brasa as the unofficial fast food of the D.C. area.

5)    I’ve likened Indonesian corn fritters to Indian pakora. While my enthusiasm for Indonesian corn fritters (bakwan jagung) varies depending upon the purveyor, I love pakora, especially if I can douse them in tamarind sauce and spiced yoghurt. The buffet at Shiney’s (our weekly Pakistani pitstop) regularly features a bunch of pakora lazing in a vat of curried yoghurt sauce. So bad for you, but so good.

Dsc01019_46)    I’ve likened the scallion pancakes at northern Chinese snacker A&J Restaurant to Indian uttapams. I actually don’t have that much experience with uttapams. If I’m at the buffet at Minerva, dosas with coconut or ginger chutney, pakora, and, of course, nan will always take precedence when I’m in carb-loading mode. Pretty much everyone has had a scallion pancake, at some point. But I bet most folks have never seen them fresh from the fryer all swollen like a blowfish (they flatten out into pancake form once they cool). I had the ones pictured here at Temptasian, the Szechuan restaurant, that all the foodies flipped out over and then subsequently abandoned once chef Peter Chang’s brief residence concluded. Though it’s admittedly not as good as it was during Chang’s tenure, it’s really the only place to get an authentic Szechuan fix in the close-in suburbs. We used to favor Crystal City’s Formosa Café, but they fled to Chantilly a couple years ago. There’s also the secret Szechuan menu at the Charlie Chiang’s on S. Pickett St., but dining at Temptasian is somehow a bit less depressing on a Saturday night than rolling through the loading dock ambience of S. Pickett Street.

Contact info for all of the places mentioned here can be found at the links in the article.

-AC




Monday, June 11, 2007

A Regal Repast at Viet Royale

I occasionally like to issue proclamations. For instance, this past weekend, in between furiously stuffing shreds of green papaya salad into my mouth, I proclaimed Vietnamese food to be my favorite of all the world cuisines.




This is significant because for the past several years I believed that Afghan cuisine held this distinction. I had even convinced AKC that we should seriously consider holding our rehearsal dinner at a particularly well-regarded Afghan restaurant. We ended up choosing the Brewer’s Art instead, thus forgoing the inevitable confusion that would have occurred as family members and close friends attempted to navigate such obscure fare as aushak and quorma kadu.

I’ve always admired how Vietnamese cuisine absorbed the French colonial influence into a seemingly natural fusion, as opposed to the forced fusion of too many upscale eateries. And yes, I realize that the colonization of Vietnam itself was forced, but I’m making a distinction between the slow and natural evolution of a cuisine resulting from two distinct cultures in proximity to one another and an overly ambitious chef forcing two distinct cuisines together as quickly as it takes to pen a menu.

But I also love the prominent role that fresh aromatic herbs and other salady accoutrement play in just about every dish. This refreshing and healthful tangle of herbs is the perfect balance to grilled meats, squares of vermicelli, and tart and fishy nuoc cham. It also has the additional benefit of enabling me to repeatedly make a pig of myself at a Vietnamese restaurant without hating myself afterward.

Dsc01325Though I’ve enjoyed bahn mi, Vietnamese coffee, and other products of the Vietnamese/French fusion, I somehow had never ordered a Vietnamese crepe. But a recent perusal of U.S. Airways Magazine, which included a photo of three such crepes, convinced me that I had to have one as soon as possible. So we schlepped out to Eden Center. And this time, rather than going to the much-lauded Four Sisters, I was determined to try a different venue. We had previously been underwhelmed by Huong Viet, so we decided to have a go at Viet Royale instead.

Dsc01323We were excited that in place of the usual lemon soda, Viet Royale distinguished itself by offering a refreshing lime soda instead. And the fresh summer rolls were well-constructed.



Dsc01327But their green papaya salad topped with strips of sesame-flecked beef jerky blew me away. The fibrous shreds of green papaya act as a bland, but coolly refreshing moderator to all of the strong flavors in this dish. The beet red jerky was topped by fresh basil and hot sauce arrayed on a heaping mound of green papaya bathed in nuoc cham. I chased its surprising heat with sips of lime soda, but I’m hopelessly addicted to spicy food and plowed through the salad until my mouth was on fire.

Dsc01329_2The crepe, also know as banh xeo and the whole reason for our expedition, turned out to be a real winner as well. The plate arrived crowded with a veritable herb garden that loomed over the crepe, which was folded over like an omelette. The brittle crepe held bits of shrimp and pork in its thin and crispy pancake layers, concealing a mound of steamed sprouts within. The rice flour crepe tasted faintly  of sweet coconut milk which was a relief after the unrelenting fire of the papaya salad. I broke off piece after piece of crepe, wrapping each fragment in lettuce along with some steamed sprouts, a tear from the sprigs of mint and basil and a few bits of pickled carrot, and dipped the whole bundle in nuoc cham. Awesome.

We’ll definitely be back to see how Viet Royale handles some of our other favorites, particularly beef wrapped in grape leaves.

Check out Viet Royale for papaya salad and bahn xeo:

6795 Wilson Blvd.
Falls Church, VA
703-533-8388

-AC