Pan Gravy or Cream Gravy? Both.

AC and I love Southern food, and whenever we find an opportunity to grub some collard greens, pork chops, or succotash, we're there. And we're ready. However, my particular weakness in this department is chicken-fried steak (hereafter referred to as CFS). And therefore, when we moved back here from New York, it was quite a relief that Southside 815 restaurant, a mighty excellent CFS purveyor, was just a two-minute drive from our apartment.

My love affair with CFS really began in the fall of 2002, when I brought AC to Dallas (my hometown) for the first time. It was our mission to hit up all the great country-food places and barbecue joints we could, and in the process, I tasted two of the best CFSs I've ever tasted. In fact, that week, I ate three chicken-fried steaks—two with pan gravy at the now-defunct but universally lauded Gennie's Bishop Grill and one with cream gravy at Celebration. Both equally fabulous. I'm certain my cholesterol reached its peak that week.

Getting back to the virtues of Southside, the restaurant does many things right, but the CFS is top notch. The portion is substantial with its delicate crispy crust poking out in all directions and topped with a light cream gravy (not enough, methinks). And while it certainly stands on its own, it is my opinion that a great CFS is only as good as its accompanying side dishes, because the experience depends entirely on what you can combine with each bite of meat 'n' crust. At Southside, one can substitute, which is critical, as I'm not crazy about their default greens. I go with the mashed potatoes (skins on) and the succotash stew. With the vinegary vegetables, the starchy potatoes, and the foundation of a hardy steak, the meal is unstoppable.

If you have the occasion to enjoy CFS or anything else (also try the pulled pork and the Dixie Chicken Sandwich) at Southside, you must save room for the homemade butterscotch sundae.

—AK