Them Bones

One Saturday not long ago, our friend KS left a crackling cell phone message on our answering machine, giddily extolling the virtues of some barbecue place out in Woodbridge. At first, we thought it was some sort of prank call because the combination of her excitement and the patchy signal on her phone made it sound like some crazy lady flipping out over “ribs” and “Dixie” and “barbecue” and “Woodbridge.” Those were basically the only words that we could make out. But several playbacks later, and we sort of figured it out. A few weeks later, KS and JS were cool enough to pick us up for an expedition to this mysterious barbecue place: Dixie Bones. And then we finally understood how a barbecue joint at a dumpy shopping center out in Woodbridge could compel someone to leave a crazed answering machine message.

Our second visit was even more revelatory. We decided, being the piglets that we are, that we would each order a “two meat” combo, which comes with two meats, two sides and a choice of bread (cornbread for us—more to come on that one). AC went for the brisket and pulled pork shoulder, as he prefers the piles of chopped barbecue meat, while I opted for the barbecued chicken and ribs, my favorites. The chicken was deliciously tender with a crispy flavorful skin. And the ribs were powerfully smoky, just a touch wet, and dusted lightly with spices, the meat needing only a modest prod to fall right off the bone.

The brisket, cut into very small pieces, was somewhat less smoky with bits of crisp and blackened ends poking out here and there. The pork was wonderfully pink and a bit fattier than most of the pulled pork we’ve had elsewhere, but the extra fat actually enhanced the flavor.

And the sides at Dixie Bones are almost as remarkable as the meat. At Dixie Bones, it’s all about the "Muddy Spuds", both fried and baked potato combined with onions and spices, the baked mash and the fried crisp a nice contrast in textures. Though they appear unsightly, the Muddy Spuds seem to be Dixie Bones’ great contribution to the traditional array of Southern sides.

We also enjoy a helping of just a good ole fashioned straight-up veggie. We got the cabbage, which though stewed in a garlicky broth had nevertheless retained a bit of its crispness. AC enjoyed the liquor from the cabbage so much that he sopped it all up with cornbread crust (for more on AC sopping up strange liquids with starchy products, please read our post on Don Lobo’s).

Mac ‘n’ cheese is a particular vice of mine, so I always order it at barbecue or Southern food joints. Unfortunately, Dixie Bones’ talents don’t lie in the realm of Mac ‘n’ cheese. It was a bit too saucy, and it was topped off last minute with a pile of shredded cheddar—not my idea of a good version of an American classic. We also ordered the collard greens, an AK/AC favorite, and these were perfectly flavored with spices, and appropriately vinegary, requiring no additional dressing with the pepper vinegar.

One of the items that really shines at Dixie Bones is the cornbread. The recipe itself is nothing out of the ordinary, but it’s the preparation—cooked in a cast-iron skillet—that elevates it to stratospheric levels. The crust is nicely charred on the outside, while the dense inside is moist and cakelike.

AC, as per usual, went a big condiment crazy with the sauces. Dixie Bones makes not one, but four different sauces for its barbecue. All four sauces are noteworthy: the first was thin and vinegary in the North Carolina style, the second was sweet, a bit thicker and spicier with flecks of herbs and spices floating around, the third was thicker still and the spiciest overall, and the fourth is a ranch-style dill dressing, which apparently, is a big hit with Alabamans. Though even the waitresses are skeptical about this last sauce, we appreciate the fact that the owners, who are originally from Alabama, feel strongly enough about this Alabaman oddity to include it in their sauce rotation even if no one else seems to understand.

Even after this meat and starch bonanza, we were determined to enjoy dessert, as most barbecue places have a capital selection of pies, and I LOVE pie (I even read a book that was all about a woman’s travels crosscountry and the pies she ate along the way). Ari went for the “fried” (actually baked) apple pie, which was underwhelming. Just a medium-sized baked pie shaped like a fried pie, and filled with mediocre, though clearly homemade, spiced apples. We’re not big fans of pie a la mode, but this pie required ice cream to cut the dryness.

On the other hand, the pecan pie was second to none. Typical recipe: filling and pecans. Though the real ta-da of this dessert is the extra layer of pecans that was added right before baking, creating a supplementary crust of toasted, on just the right side of burnt, pecans.

After this embarassing display of glut, it was definitely time to get the check. As we were waiting, we glanced over at two tables to our right, both housed by patrons digging into what might be the biggest misuse of barbecue meat we’ve ever seen. Picture this: a giant baked potato, topped with your barbecue meat of choice, loaded even more liberally with shredded cheddar, sour cream, butter, onions, and whatever else your misguided heart desires. But these people were plowing into it like it was their final meal request. One woman even opened the levee on one of the barbecue sauces and drowned the meat and potato with it, most likely rendering all meat and barbecue flavor redundant. It was a sad thing to witness.

Still, our hearts will remain loyal to Dixie Bones.

Go there:

13440 Occoquan Road
Woodbridge, Virginia 22191
(703) 492-2205

—AK