Sunday, August 27, 2006

Bed & (Awesome) Breakfast

A couple weeks ago, AC and I traveled to Montreal for five days of Québécois food and culture. While we certainly enjoyed our fare share of excellent meals, Québécois and otherwise (not to mention excellent coffee), one of our best meals was a 30-second walk from the door of our room.

Our bed and breakfast, the Heritage Victorien, served up one of the best (probably THE best) B&B breakfast we've ever had. First, let me say that two of the things AC and I love the most are freshly squeezed juice (pretty much any kind), and bread. And if we had to tailor a meal that perfectly showcased these two items, this would be it. Each morning, we came down to a spread of at least five fresh organic breads, including buttery croissants, a cherry/chocolate loaf, organic whole wheat bread with baked-in Gruyere cheese, and kamut (a very large grain, related to wheat) bread. Additionally, a bowl of fresh white cherries, two pots of homemade jams, freshly melon-balled cantaloupe, and a warm onion-apple tart were among the extra food items at our disposal. If we wanted to (and we kind of did), we could have eaten for three straight hours.

It's also worth mentioning that the B&B itself is far and away one of the most elegant we've patronized—and we have stayed at many, as it is our preferred method of lodging when we travel. We feel like we get a more "staying with a friend" experience, and in many cases (not all!), the proprietors have often been a good local guide and/or just interesting people to meet. Plus the interior was above and beyond anything we've seen (especially for the very reasonable price). The proprietor, Denis, bought and renovated two Victorian-era buildings. Each of the rooms is painstakingly designed with a mixture of antiques and new furnishings and fixtures. Case in point: our room was outfitted with an relatively old bed, an antique dresser and side table, a couple of old chairs, a beautiful oriental rug, and ... an refinished old-school claw foot bathtub IN the room, along with a new sink, all with new fancy fixtures. And for AC, who is not always keen on bathing where he sleeps, there was a standalone shower in a small room where the toilet also was. So-two bathing options, a sink, and toilet, all en suite. Did I mention there was a full suite of cable channels? Yeah, this place was awesome.

If you visit Montreal, please stay here:

Heritage Victorien
311  East Ontario Street
Montréal Québec Canada H2X 1H7
(514) 845 7932



—AK



Thursday, August 24, 2006

Here Comes the Cake

Over a year ago, while we were planning our wedding, AC became focussed on finding the best vendor for our cake. Neither of us are big cake people, but AC had a wacky idea, and he wanted to find the right bakery to pull it off.

We settled on Charm City Cakes, helmed by Duff Goldman, who you might know from various Food Network cake challenges and, now, his own show. At the time, we had no idea of the fame (or, frankly, the mad scientist) potential of our cake baker. He is known for his off-the-wall creations that sometimes involve moving parts and non-edible objects. But when we arrived at Duff's bakery, we knew we had made the right choice.

Beardsleycakedesign_1AC wanted our cake to evoke fin de siècle artist Aubrey Beardsley, so we took in a book of drawings and showed Duff a picture we liked, which actually ended up being a knock-off Beardsley but still had that masqueradey/exotic feel of an original.

Duff seemed to be excited about the challenge and even said something to the effect of "thanks for bringing this cool idea to us."

Fast-forward several months, just a couple weeks before the wedding, I get a call from the bakery asking me if it's okay if they film the making of a cake for a Food Network special, and also would we like to be in the show extolling the glory of our cake on camera in all of our wedding glory. The answer to the first question was, "of course!" But we respectfully declined the offer to be on camera on our wedding day. No thank you.

The cake was tremendous. We opted for a0606031715203438_1 cherry-almond cake with a basic buttercream frosting. In between each layer of cake was a filling of
fresh cherry chunks. It was amazing. Because I didn't get the chance to
actually have a full piece during the wedding, I shamelessly dug into
the top tier later that night. Come on, how could you expect AK and AC
to keep food in our freezer for a whole year!?


Three months after the fact, we have learned that our cake did not end up on the proverbial cutting room floor, as our wedding creation will indeed be featured on tonight's episode of "Ace of Cakes," the new show devoted to the innovation and madness of Duff Goldman and his crew. Check it out at 10:30 Eastern/9:30 Central on the Food Network.



Cake photo by Jay Wilson.

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—AK



Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Eve of Consumption

AC and I recently turned 30, and my very thoughtful father and stepmother set us up with a gift certificate to Restaurant Eve, the big buzz place in Alexandria right now. Lucky for us, we live very close to Eve so we’ve frequently enjoyed their proprietary cocktails (we wrote about them here). We’ve also eaten there once when AC’s father treated us to the tasting room, which was a completely over-the-top experience that, in my case, involved nine courses. So, once again we find ourselves headed for Eve for another amazing meal. This time we opted for the bistro, which we found was just as revelatory.

We decided to pull out all the stops on this meal, nonetheless. We both started out with appetizers: the housemade gnocchi in housemade ricotta cheese and the selection of charcuterie. The gnocchi was second to none—light and pillowy, as opposed to most gnocchi, which are often dense and chewy. Most of us think of cured meats when the word “charcuterie” is used, but in this case, the dish was mostly a pate- and terrine-oriented array of meats. There was a small pot of chicken liver paté, slices of duck pastrami, rabbit terrine, squab terrine, one more terrine that I can’t recall, and “fromage de tête,” which, though it was technically head cheese, was thin slices of flavorful sausage rather than slices from a jellied cube of snouts. I almost never pass up the opportunity to enjoy paté or terrines, while AC prefers to steer clear of the liver products.

For entrees, I opted for the Muscovy duck breast with a “doughnut” peach (basically a freshly stewed half peach), all over a bed of slaw. As it was presented to me, the waiter poured some doughnut peach au jus over the top. The duck was meaty and juicy like a perfectly cooked steak, and it soaked up the wonderful peachy jus. AC went for the ribeye steak, which came with a potato galette. The steak, according to AC, was the second best steak he’s ever had, the absolute best being from Peter Luger’s in New York. Still, it’s a very respectable position to be in, and he even ate all the fat—a rarity. And the galette was out of this world. It was presented to us on a small cast-iron skillet, popping and sizzling. The inside was appropriately creamy while the crust was crispy and golden and heaped with minced garlic. There was so much garlic, in fact, that I was certain we could be smelled from several tables away. But I happen to be obsessed with garlic, so I put my self-consciousness aside and shamelessly enjoyed this little piece of heaven.

While we’re still discussing savories, it’s critical that I spend time discussing the homemade bread. Slices of warm, crusty whole wheat bread simply melted in our mouths, and that was before the butter was applied. I don’t know what these cows are fed, but the butter was the richest I’ve tasted. I hypothesized that it’s Irish butter, as I’ve tried that before, and the taste was similar. The proprietor and head chef is also Irish, so perhaps he just had to serve it in his restaurant. Still, even though we had loads of food coming to us, we insisted on a second round of bread, totaling six slices each. And we ate it all.

Half way through our entrees, AC declared that there would be no dessert, but that he would look at the menu. I countered that we shouldn’t even look at the menu, as we would definitely be tempted to order and eat two desserts, resulting in major stomach strain (and I was wearing my super-skinny pants that night, stupidly). A few minutes later AC said to me “I’m not even looking at the dessert menu; we’re not eating dessert.” I concurred. But what happens is, wait staff usually have this line that they say. It goes something like this: “Would you like to see our dessert menu?” The response, “yes,” was involuntary. Next thing we know an amazing parfait of pistachio custard, apricot puree, and buttermilk cream arrived in front of me, all layered beautifully in a highball glass. AC got the Chocolate and Marshmallow dessert, which was a cool idea, but the execution was a bit lacking. It was a sliver of rich chocolate with a graham cracker pastry beneath it, accompanied by only a smidgen of marshmallow on the side. Even after he was done, we had to do double duty on the parfait because of the volume of it. Each layer was pretty dense and due to the width and depth of the highball, the dessert seemed to never end. Plus, I was really testing the strength of the hook-and-eye closure on my pants. Still we’re glad we did it, as it was a top-notch meal, and in addition, the service and ambience at Eve are first class. Case in point: As we were waiting for our table to be prepared, the head chef and local celebrity Cathal Armstrong stopped on his way to the busy kitchen to say “hello.” That’s just how things go down in Virginia (and Ireland?).

Next stop: Eamonn’s: a Dublin Chipper, a fish-and-chips place and brand extension of the Eve empire. Only this one is straight up peasant food and alcohol. Count us in.

Restaurant Eve
110 South Pitt Street
Alexandria, VA
(703) 706-0450



Sunday, August 13, 2006

What We've Been Doing

We have indeed been remiss in updating this blog regularly. We have no excuse. Actually we do have excuses, but they're all lousy, so we won't share. But we will share with you our recent food write-ups for DCist.

2006_0809_southside815_11. AC and I are particularly fond of Southside's fried chicken. Not only is it appropriately spiced, succulent, and comes sheathed in a super-crispy skin, it seems to arrive in record time. This is a very good thing for two people who are  always hungry.

2. Read here about my adventure at the fish market in DC.

2006_0713_patisseriepoupon_13. AC and I went to Patisserie Poupon to enjoy its rich quiches, French onion soup, and amazing pastries, which come in both large and small sizes! We recommend the spinach and bacon quiches.

4. If you enjoy a tall wheat beer and a hearty goulash or sauerbraten, read up on Cafe Berlin, a fantastic German restaurant (and one of the last of its kind) in the DC area.

Dsc00914_35. Many restaurants treat brunch as an afterthought. Not Majestic Cafe. This posh little diner serves up amazing deep fried poached eggs (yes, you read that correctly), corned beef hash, and country sausage, gravy and biscuits.

6. Until now we thought the best pint of ice cream we could buy at a grocery store was Haagen Dazs or Ben and Jerry's. Until we tried packaged pints of Philly's Capogiro gelato, the creamiest and richest stuff we've tasted.




2006_0629_shineys_37. We recently tried some new things and old faves at Shiney's, a Pakistani joint in Annandale. If you venture out there, don't be turned off by the buffet; they make up all of their meat and veggie dishes to order. And they have the best gulab jamun this side of the Indus River.



Wednesday, August 9, 2006

Crafty Carving

It would just be downright wrong to not partake of the national dish while in China. So, even though I'd already had one of the famed lazy susan meals that day, I insisted that JX take me for the real-deal Peking duck experience.

There was no question where we were going, as far as JX was concerned: Quan Ju De, a famous Peking duck chain restaurant based in Beijing.

It's very possible that there were other items on the menu other than the roast duck dish, but I honestly can't recall A. what they might have been or B. what we even had for an appetizer (it was probably something tofu-related, as many of our dishes were that week). Why we even ordered an appetizer is beyond me, as you'll soon understand how extraneous it was.

Still, any other menu items would be sadly reduced to a footnote at a place like this. Once we were seated, it was hard to avert my gaze from the parade of duck chefs (?) coming out of the kitchen one by one. Tall, quiet gentleman pushed their respective carts holding bronze, shiny whole ducks to salivating diners. While we waited, a server brought over the accoutrements
that are essential to experiencing Peking duck—a dish of hoisin sauce,
a dish of julienned scallions, and a plate of rice flour pancakes.Once our chef arrived at our table, he silently and effortlessly began to carve.

Dscn1195_3First, he lopped off several pieces of skin and fat (only a tiny bit of meat was attached). These pieces were meant as appetizers, only to be dipped in the hoisin sauce and not to be wrapped in the pancakes or garnished with onion, as is customary with the meat. At first, it seemed bizarre to just eat pieces of crispy skin and fat, but then I came to my senses—what could be better than eating straight crispy skin and fat!? And so we did. The pieces gave a little crunch as the fat and small amount of meat melted away in my mouth. While it's not exactly the kind of thing a person should eat on a regular basis, it is one of those dining experiences that stays with you for a long time (in this case, two years).

After we ate our fair share of fat pieces, it was time for the meat. But we did not eat without first getting quite a show. The carver, with the most delicate sleight of hand ever executed, took on each quadrant of the duck with total perfection. Perhaps it's all muscle memory to this guys by now, but it was sure impressive from where I was sitting. The meat was pink, juicy and tender, and each piece had a panel of that fantastic skin attached.

If you're lucky enough to be in Shanghai, visit Quan Ju De at:

4F, 786 Huaihai Zhonglu
Shanghai, China
+ 021-5404-5799



—AK